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Expedition in Nepal

Expedition in NepalMountaineering in Nepal is one of the most attraction and courageous parts rather than high adventure trekking. This beautiful tiny Himalayan kingdom of Nepal is one of the paradise that has meet anyone who wish to conquer high mountains by their own foot. This small kingdom is the land of world's top most highest peaks including Mt. Everest is majestic crowned to the north. Eight of the world's 14 peaks over 8000m including Mt. Everest (8850m), Kanchenjunga (8586m),Lhotse (8516m), Makalu (8463m), Cho Oyu (8201m), Dhaulagiri (8167m), Manaslu (8163m) Annapurna (8091m), are only located in Nepal. Mountaineering and trekking in Nepal has relied heavily on the progress and Inspiration developed by various expeditions to Everest. Mush of the attraction of Nepal in the early days resulted from the discovery that the highest peak in the world lay within the forbidden and isolated kingdom. Beside Royalty and other government liable charges, Himalaya journey Treks & Expedition Company provides its best service with experienced climbing Sherpa Sirdar in very negotiable price. Our Sherpa Sirdar are already success to summit 8000m including Mt. Everest.

Expedition Support
Mountain Travel Nepal offers a complete range of services to expeditions including:
Permit acquisition
All bureaucratic formalities
High altitude Sherpas
Full base camp support
Customs clearance
All transport arrangements
Mountaineering teams can choose which Mountain Travel Nepal services are appropriate for their particular expedition. Mountain Travel Nepal has organised and supported expeditions to scores of peaks.
Our staff is our best asset. In addition to a core of western employees, all of our Sirdars (Sherpa leaders), cooks and administration team in Kathmandu are employed on a full-time basis, not just seasonally. This promotes loyalty and helps us to maintain the highest standards of service which our clients enjoy. Some of our staff have been with the company for over 30 years, and are walking encyclopedia on the Himalayas, the climbing histories of the mountains, the flora and fauna and of course, the way of life of the mountain people whom we employ.

In addition to Sirdars and Sherpa guides, lowland porters are also employed to carry food loads and equipment. This provides a valuable source of income to hill tribes and over the past 40 years Mountain Travel Nepal has created a trusting two-way working relationship with these people. (At higher elevations, we sometimes use yaks). All of our staff, both full-time and hired hands, are properly equipped with clothing and footwear, and covered by the company’s insurance scheme. In addition they can rely on our Sherpa Benefit Fund for financial assistance in special circumstances.

Your safety and that of our staff is our first priority. Mountain Travel Nepal has a proven history of preventing illnesses (such as Acute Mountain Sickness – AMS) through our Sherpas’ attention to your health and safety. All treks and expeditions that venture above 4000m in the Khumbu (Everest) region carry bottled oxygen for emergency use. In addition, we have many years of experience in coordinating helicopter rescues both for trekkers and climbers, most of whom are not trekking with Mountain Travel Nepal, but whose friends turn to us in their hour of need because of our expertise.
We are able to liaise with your Embassy officials and arrange for repatriation or/and hospitalisation as appropriate. Please note that insurance is not available in Nepal and we strongly recommend that you take out comprehensive insurance (including helicopter rescue/repatriation) before arrival.


Ama Dablam

Is a mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal. The lower western peak of Ama Dablam is 5,563 metres (18,251 feet). Ama Dablam means "Mother and her Necklace" and is a stunningly beautiful mountain that many people who visit the area will consider the best in the region. For several days, Ama Dablam will dominate the eastern sky for anyone trekking to Mount Everest.

Ama Dablam was first climbed in 1961 by Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward and Wally Romanes. The normal climbing route is via the southwest ridge. Climbers will typically setup three camps along the ridge with camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier (Dablam). Any ice that calves off the glacier goes left, away from the camp. A climbing permit and a liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam. As with Mt. Everest, the best climbing months are April-May (before the monsoon) and September-October.


Annapurna is a series of peaks in the Himalaya 55-km-long massif whose highest point, Annapurna I, stands at 8,091 m (26,538 ft), making it the 10th-highest summit in the world and one of the 14 “eight-thousanders”. It is located east of a great gorge cut through the Himalaya by the Kali Gandaki river, which separates it from the Dhaulagiri massif. Annapurna is a Sanskrit name which is translated as Goddess of Grains .

The Annapurna massif has six major peaks:

Annapurna I

8,091 m

(26,545 ft.)

Annapurna II

7,937 m

(26,040 ft.)

Annapurna III

7,555 m

(24,786 ft.)

Annapurna IV

7,525 m

(24,688 ft.)


7,455 m

(24,457 ft.)

Annapurna South

7,219 m

(23,684 ft.)

 Annapurna I was the first 8,000 metre peak to be climbed. Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, of a French expedition, reached the summit on June 3 1950.

The south face of Annapurna was first climbed in 1970 by a British expedition led by Chris Bonington and including the alpinist Ian Clough, who was killed by a falling ice-pillar during the descent.

In 1978 an expedition led by Arlene Blum became the first American team to climb Annapurna I. The expedition was also remarkable for being composed entirely of women.

On February 3, 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer, a Polish climber, made the first ascent of an eight-thousander in winter.

The Annapurna peaks are among the world's most dangerous mountains to climb, with a fatality rate of 41%.

 The other peaks

Annapurna II was first climbed in 1960 by a British/Indian/Nepalese team led by Jimmy Roberts, via the West Ridge, approached from the north. The summit party comprised Richard Grant, Chris Bonington, and Sherpa Ang Nyima.

Annapurna III was first climbed in 1961 by an Indian expedition led by Mohan Kohli, via the Northeast Face. The summit party comprised Mohan Kohli, Sonam Gyatso, and Sonam Girmi.

Annapurna IV was first climbed in 1955 by a German expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz, via the North Face and Northwest Ridge. The summit party comprised Steinmetz, Harald Biller, and Jürgen Wellenkamp.

Gangapurna was first climbed in 1965 by a German expedition led by Günther Hauser, via the East Ridge. The summit party comprised 11 members of the expedition.

Annapurna South (a.k.a. Annapurna Dakshin, or Moditse) was first climbed in 1964 by a Japanese expedition, via the North Ridge. The summit party comprised S. Uyeo and Mingma Tsering.

 Cho Oyu

Cho Oyu (or Cho Oyo or Mt. Zhuoaoyou) is the sixth highest mountain in the world. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalaya and is 20 km west of Mount Everest. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. It was first climbed on October 19, 1954 via the northwest ridge by Herbert Tichy, Joseph Joechler and Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama of an Austrian expedition. Cho Oyu was first attempted in 1952 by an expedition led by Eric Shipton, but technical difficulties at an ice cliff above 6,650m (21,820ft) proved beyond their abilities. Today, these ice cliffs are normally ascended using fixed ropes.

Just a few kilometres west of Cho Oyu is Nangpa La (5,716m/18,753ft), a glaciated pass that serves as the main trading route between the Tibetans and the Khumbu’s Sherpas. Due to its close proximity to this pass, climbers consider Cho Oyu the easiest 8,000m peak to climb. Cho Oyu was the fifth 8,000m peak to be climbed after Annapurna in June 1950, Mount Everest in May 1953, Nanga Parbat in July 1953 and K2 in July 1954


Is the seventh highest mountain in the world and forms the eastern anchor of the Dhaulagiri Himal, a subrange of the Nepal Himalaya. The Dhaulagiri Himal lies in the Dhaulagiri Zone of north-central Nepal, northwest of Pokhara. Dhaulagiri rises 7000m over the Kali Gandaki gorge to the southeast in about 30km of horizontal distance. The South Face of Dhaulagiri is also a massive drop; it is approximately a 4000m wall, and it has been the site of some epic climbs. 

Dhaulagiri was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji, members of a Swiss/Austrian expedition. The expedition leader was Max Eiselin; they used the Northeast Ridge route. This was also the first Himalayan climb supported by an airplane for suppies. The airplane, a Pilatus PC-6, crashed during the approach and was later abandoned on the mountain. The vast majority of ascents to date have been via the first ascent route, which is the "Normal Route" on the mountain. However ascents have been made from almost every direction.


Mount Everest, the highest mountain on earth attracts the most number of climbers. Everest's summit ridge marks the border between Nepal and Tibet. In Nepal, the mountain is called Sagarmatha meaning "Forehead of the Sky" in Sanskrit. In Tibetan it is Chomolungma or Qomolangma meaning "Mother of the Universe". The mountain was given its English name by Andrew Waugh, the British surveyor-general of India. He chose to name the mountain after George Everest, his predecessor.

Mt. Everest has two main climbing routes, the southeast ridge from Nepal and the northeast ridge from Tibet, as well as thirteen other less frequently climbed routes. Of the two main routes, the southeast ridge is technically easier and is the more frequently-used route. It was the route used by Hillary and Tenzing in 1953. This was, however, a route decision dictated more by politics than by design as the Tibetan border had been closed to foreigners since 1949. Most attempts are made during April and May before the summer monsoon season. A change in the jet stream at this time of year also reduces the average wind speeds high on the mountain. While attempts are sometimes made after the monsoons in September and October, the additional snow deposited by the monsoons makes climbing even more difficult.


Kanchenjunga is the third highest mountain in the world and the second highest in Nepal, located in the Taplejung district straddling the frontier between Nepal and India. Kanchenjunga means  "Five Treasures of the Snow", as it contains five peaks, four of them over 8,450 metres. Until 1852, Kanchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations made by the British 1849 Great Trigonometric Survey showed Mount Everest to be the highest and Kanchenjunga the third-highest.

 He five peaks of Kanchenjunga are :

Kanchenjunga Main

8,586 m

28,169 ft †

Kanchenjunga West (Yalung Kang)

8,505 m

27,904 ft

Kanchenjunga Central (Middle)

8,482 m

27,828 ft

Kanchenjunga South

8,494 m

27,867 ft


7,902 m

25,925 ft

 Kanchenjunga was first climbed on May 25, 1955 by George Band and Joe Brown of a British expedition. The British expedition honored the beliefs of the Sikkimese, who hold the summit sacred, by stopping a few feet short of the actual summit. Most successful summit parties since then have followed this tradition.

The huge massif of Kanchenjunga is buttressed by great ridges running roughly due east to west and north to south, forming a giant 'X'. These ridges contain a host of spectacular 6,000 to 7,000 meter peaks. On the east ridge in Sikkim, is Siniolchu (6,888 m / 22,600 ft), regarded as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The west ridge culminates in the magnificent Jannu (7,710 m / 25,294 ft) with its imposing north face. To the south, clearly visible from Darjeeling, are Kabru North (7,338 m / 24,075 ft), Kabru South (7,316 m / 24,002 ft) and Rathong peaks (6,678 m / 21,910 ft). The north ridge contains The Twins and Tent Peak, and runs up to the Tibetan border by the Jongsong La, a 6,120 m (20,080 ft) pass. Because of its remote location in Nepal, the Kanchenjunga region is not much explored by trekkers. It has, therefore, retained much of its pristine beauty.


Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on earth and is connected to Mount Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle (East) is 8,414 metres and Lhotse Shar is 8,383 metres.
Lhotse (main) was first climbed on May 18, 1956 by the Swiss team Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger. On May 12, 1979, Zepp Maierl and Rolf Walter of Austria made the first ascent of Lhotse Shar. On May 23, 2001, the first ascent of Lhotse Middle was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition.

On December 31, 1988, Krzysztof Wielicki, a Polish climber, completed the first winter ascent of Lhotse.


Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is located 22 km east of Mount Everest. Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid. Rising just north of the higher summit, separated by a narrow saddle, is Chomo Lonzo (7,818m/25,650') a subsidiary peak of Makalu.

Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco, after the team's first attempt failed in 1954. Franco and two other climbers summitted the next day. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and NE ridge. The first attempt on Makalu was made by an American team in the spring of 1954. They attempted to reach the top via the SE ridge but were turned back at 7,100 metres by a constant barrage of storms. The first ascent by the SE ridge was made by two climbers from a Japanese expedition on May 23, 1970. Makalu is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements.


Manaslu is the eighth highest mountain in the world. Manaslu is derived from the Sanskrit word Manasa and means "Mountain of the Spirit". Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu of a Japanese expedition. Since then the mountain has attracted many Japanese climbers.


Most experienced trekkers, hill-walkers and mountaineers will already have their own personal opinions as to the clothing and equipment they use and prefer. We hope the following guidelines will be useful for those who are traveling with us in the Himalaya probably for the first time, whatever their previous experience. In the following equipment section we have given a general guideline as to what equipment might be required for most climbs during the usual pre-monsoon and post-monsoon seasons; roughly October – May.

Whilst you may have your own ideas, certain basic items are essential. Other items are optional but will add to your comfort or enjoyment. Many of our suggestions are open to your own interpretation: if you already have something similar it may well do – perhaps not quite so well but you will not have to waste money on something new that you may have little occasion to use again!

For any important items you need to buy, we suggest you visit your local specialist mountain shop. They should be able to advise you knowledgeably and sell you the right goods for the job. Boots especially are of critical importance; it is essential that they are properly broken-in and well-maintained. Prepare them beforehand with the appropriate boot dressing; your mountain shop will advise.

Hiking boots or shoes, can be lightweight but preferably with some ankle support. Training type shoes.
Flip-flops or river sandals for use around camp, bathing or washing.
Double boots: Modern plastic outer with separate inner boot is recommended.

Light rain gear, preferably wind proof.
Four light sweaters.
Cotton shirts, plus warmer shirts
Shorts, culottes, trousers, skirts
(For Ladies, modest shorts are acceptable in well trekked areas, but cotton skirts are good whilst trekking, if preferred)
Enough pairs of cotton underwear, which could easily rinse through and dry on daily basis.
Enough pairs of “sports” type socks with a bit of body to them plus thinner pair for camp use, again can wash through
Sun hat
Track suit, useful around campsite
Sleeping gear, sarong or pajamas

Personal first aid kit (should be reasonably comprehensive)
Repair kit (needle and thread, shoe repair, glue, small scissors etc)
Note book, pens, pencils
Camera, binoculars (optional but recommended)
Reading material, playing cards, games
Favorite snacks
Swiss army knife or equivalent
Toilet kit plus toilet paper
Two small towels
Umbrella/Rain jacket
Normal torch/flashlight plus head torch and spare batteries

Climbing gears
Crampons and ice axe (these can be hired from Mountain Travel Nepal on request)
Climbing harness

 Climbing Seasons

Expedition Seasons




Peak Climbing